CARBURETOR REBUILDING FAQs…
Q: Do you rebuild all carburetors?
A: No – only the models listed on the homepage. Keep in mind, these are model numbers – not List numbers. If in doubt, complete THIS form and I’ll let you know your options.
Q: Do you offer Carburetor painting or plating?
A: Neither plating nor painting are offered. Although, you may opt to have parts like the choke door, fasteners, and linkage replaced which will be plated – if that’s what you’re looking for.
Q: Do you rebuild street-strip and racing carbs?
A: I only rebuild street-carburetors.
Q: How do you know what the settings are for my carburetor?
A: Factory manuals and service guides are used to decipher your carburetor by List number to identify components & settings.
Q: What are ethanol-compatible gaskets?
A: Ethanol in gasoline destroys some gasket materials over time. The gaskets I use resist this degradation. Material selection is a vital and often overlooked consideration for all gaskets. I’ve got you covered!
Q: Do you test brass floats if reusing?
A: Yes – all brass floats are checked for leaks. But because ethanol fuel can damage the solder on these, the best option is to replace them with newer material floats. Every quote will include this option.
Q: What does hand-fitting of parts mean?
A: Every part and sub-assembly is assembled without gaskets and visually & hand inspected for precise fit and alignment. Filing, sanding, alignment, and fastener replacement to correct flaws are common.
Q: Are non-stick gaskets available for every carburetor?
A: While not available for all carbs, non-stick gaskets are available for most carbs. You’ll be notified if non-stick gaskets are available, but not currently in stock (more common in recent times) with options. In all cases, all gaskets are coated with a release agent making future removal easy.
Q: Are your carburetor parts really made in the USA?
A: Purchasing parts manufactured in the US is a first-choice selection. After that, parts by our allies. Critical parts like metering jets & rods, power valves, and needle & seats are all Factory purchases and never aftermarket unless the lack of availability mandates aftermarket.
Q: What if some parts are worn, broken, or missing on my carb?
A: No worries – this is quite the norm! Once your carb arrives, a part inventory is created, and you will be contacted with pricing options for replacements.
Q: Will my newly renewed carburetor need to be adjusted when I put it on my car/truck?
A: In most cases, you may need to make minor adjustments to one or more of the following: idle speed, choke, enrichment, float level, and maybe the transmission kickdown. These are the same variables to consider should you install a brand-new carb. The state-of-tune to your vehicle you are installing your renewed carb on; will dictate the amount of dialing-in needed.
Q: What type of things need to be checked before installing my (re)new’d carburetor?
A: Before installing your freshly rebuilt carb, make every effort to have your fuel pressure and timing correctly set, make certain there are not vacuum leaks, and install a fresh fuel filter as close to your carb as possible. Also, be certain you are using fresh gasoline as stale fuel (anything older than a couple of months idle) will tune very differently than fresh fuel.
Cleaning & Prep Qs
Q: Do you clean using sand-blast, glass-bead, or soda-blast, or other media on your carburetors or parts?
A: NO media blasting of any type is used on my carbs. Not only does this ruin the appearance of the carb (in my opinion), but the risk of having grit or even soda (sodium bicarbonate) stuck in the passages of the carb is a very real risk. All cleaning is done using a proprietary multiple-step non-blasting and non-acid cleaning process. Some components are also further cleaned using ultrasonic cleaners.
Q: What is chemical cleaning of carburetors and parts mean?
A: As noted (somewhere) above, I do not media-blast any part of my carburetors. My process for cleaning carburetor body components and small parts differs based on their composition (substrate) and is a proprietary process. I will share however that I do not use any acids (including vinegar) as they are too risky for the soft metals typical on carburetors and damage the protective coating of aluminum & zinc – which is itself sacrificial. Many people have used acids like vinegar with success – good for them – but I won’t use it.
Q: Will my all the stains on my carburetor be removed when cleaning?
A: Most will, but some will still be present. Our processes preserve the patina of the carburetor leaving behind visible metal grain, factory stamp markings, and normal discoloration with use and age. Look at the gallery for examples of how my carbs appear post-processing.